Full crimp vs half crimp vs open hand reddit. I feel most comfortable with the four finger open hands, and will try to focus on that grip for now. Just recently started training closed crimps. So I am trying to slowly train my open hand grip in climbing and on the hangboard. Was able to do max hangs at 130% BW half crimp, yet barely able to pull on at BW open hand. The open hand or 3 finger drag, half crimp, and full crimp. half crimp Hey all, After been mostly an indoor climber for 6/7 years, I’ve slowly been transitioning to outdoor bouldering. I have now started to try to increase strength in a half crimp position. However he did say that he trains full crimp which would train the things the true half crimp position trains. I am pretty sure this is from over full-crimping. Short version (my opinion): - When in doubt, measure a strict half crimp at the index finger by keeping a straight line through PIP, DIP, and fingernail/edge. At the same time if I ever had to full crimp it would A) feel weak and B) feel super dodgy. How to Climb Safely with Half crimp and Full crimp Climbing Grips It is critical to know how to be safe when using grip techniques, whether you are a first-time climber or have completed several climbs. Anyone who has switched from 20mm to 10mm or even less, around what %bw on 20mm do you think is good to 3 finger drag is the only way most people can actually “open hand” (all PIP joints >90°), it just has to do with the length of your fourth finger. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Edit: if 20mm half crimp is difficult, use a pulley system to take some weight off, if you have access to one. I recently did my test day and noticed my fingers were holding in open crimp vs the suggested half crimp I've read online. The correlations with route grades were similar. But note that I worry more about my fingers than my wrist. The index is the main differentiating finger between 4 fingers pseudo-open, and a strict half crimp, The chisel (mid two in a right angle at the 2nd joint and the index in an extended position) is a lot stronger than the half-crimp on deep (≥10 mm) flat edges, for a lot of people. One downside is that a lot of energy is wasted cranking to a full crimp every time I hit a small hold. However if you From what I understand from the training blogs, articles, podcasts, etc. Full Crimp Jede dieser Griffvarianten fühlt sich anders an und im Eifer des Gefechtes benutzen Boulderer:innen die Begriffe oftmals etwas salopp. I noticed while doing weighted hangs on beastmaker 20mm that I naturally rotate my wrists outward so that my fingers aren't perpendicular to the hold but at a slight angle. The grip style makes a huge difference on a hangboard. Jan 5, 2025 · Open handing works best when you're pulling down on a hold, when a hold starts getting near shoulder height you're starting to pull out on it more, a crimp can pivot on the hold because the fingertips are fixed (by the thumb usually) closer to the wrist. Half Crimp vs. Jan 29, 2019 · I've been doing deadhang repeaters with an open hand grip and progressed nicely. Fingerboarding with proper form definitely helps. Closed Crimp vs. I am a professional musician and Half/full crimping is generally a lot more helpful when moving off a hold and/or locking off because it allows for a more secure grip on the hold but any move made with a half crimp can be made with an open hand crimp too. May 1, 2024 · When starting, avoid full-crimping until you have built enough strength that half-crimping feels good. Is it worth training my half crimp strength specifically? I asked Sean Mccoll about this a while back. For me, half-crimp back 3 (the only way I can hold small things back 3 - my fingers wont fit on an edge in any other way) is the most tweaky of all grips, except For ages I've had a massive disparity between open hand and half crimp. You suck at first, but it gets better, just like every other grip type. Jan 31, 2022 · (Photo: JOHN COEFIELD) HALF VS FULL CRIMPING Half crimp training alone cannot fully prepare you to crimp with all your might on a tiny edge. Aim to position your fingers on the hold so that the weight is distributed through the pads of your fingers and not the tips. Would be nice to match my current full crimp strength aka 5 sec hand on toms latice or 11 sec on BM currently at 10kilos asistance for half and 20 for open. I train open crimp and 3 a lot more than full crimping lately, but it's been specific to my goal problems. Whilst I agree that half-crimping is safer a lot of the time than dragging or crimping, I think the main reason it's safer than open is that you generally do it with 4 fingers, which is inherently safer than dropping fingers off. However, in my left hand the full crimp actually feels weaker than keeping it half crimp or open between open hand and half crimp; it is neither. ) Not full-crimping but definitely more crimped than on a 20mm, where I notice sometimes I'm kinda between a half crimp and "chisel crimp". Depelop my open handed/half crimp strength. It really depends on your application. I’m not convinced there is a big benefit to training true half crimp vs open half. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. As we do most of our Yea, my open hand is four fingers but I see half crimp as almost basicly a full crimp without the thumb. Neither one is more important than the other. Meanwhile, bolt-on holds have evolved and are now far more user-friendly and generally suited to the half-crimp than the hideous sharp edges that we used to bone down on. This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. I'm thinking this might be beneficial, my index definitely is a weak link in half crimps. Never would I grab a hold open hand unless maybe on a side pull. half crimp with and without the Aug 27, 2023 · Discover the difference between an open-hand grip and a crimp in climbing. I don’t train the full crimp just for injury prevention, but the other two are important to train. I'm wondering if training half crimp and full crimp has worked for anyone? Or maybe open hand just fits the physiology of my hand better. Background: I used to subconsciously full crimp all the time, which was not great for my fingers; it caused them to be inflamed and very stiff (synovitis). The fact that the thumb is on top doesn't change all that much to the forces at play and load on the pulleys, as shown by several studies. So you have one person practicing the full hand crimp too often and getting injured, and another person who is mistakenly identifying their closed hand crimp as full and doing fine. Not only do you lose a whole entire finger, but a crimp offers a lot of mechanical advantage. Important Tip: Crimp holds primarily engage the fingertips, so proper finger placement is crucial. Sep 27, 2024 · This fail-safe is when your half-crimp is compromised, and you fall into an open-hand grip. I'm strongest at full crimp and weaker as the grip opens up, with 3fd being my weakest by far. As a result, it’s easy to injure yourself with the half crimp if you overuse it. My open hand and full crimp both improved (but not as much as my half crimp did). I could hang 30+ kg on an 14 mm edge in the open hand position (4 fingers open). I am using the beastmaker 1000 bottom crimp appx 15-16mm according to a different thread on reddit. Then I started doing half crimp hangboarding. I start with a more aggressive crimp and let the load on the finger open my crimp to about 90 degrees for hangs and consider that a half crimp. Feb 2, 2025 · Since the half crimp grip is more difficult, half crimp training will help develop the muscles and tendons in your fingers and wrists. Hangboarding, also known as ‘fingerboarding,’ is the best way to train your crimp strength once you’ve developed your pulleys and tendons more. After Does wrapping your thumb over your index finger make you cringe? You may be missing out on some serious pulling Every crimping position has its application. I crimp most of the time and haven’t been injured yet. Id say my grip is almost purely open hand or half crimp, most common a sort of 80% half crimp where index a a little shy of 90° and my ring and middle are about or slightly over 90°. Full crimping and more aggressive angles in DIP/PIP joints puts a bit more pressure on the pulleys compared to open hand or strick half crimp. I've almost completely switched to full open hand crimping (120+ degrees) and haven't been injured since. Like you said about the open hand, its easy if the hold is above you and your wrist is pulling down comfortably. I have trouble hanging body weight with closed crimp on 10mm, but can do 8mm + 20% BW on an 8mm with a half crimp. May 29, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. training half crimps is effective at targeting the muscles used for open hand as well as full crimp positions with one exercise. Just as an aside, I hardly ever use a full closed crimp and I am significantly weaker with it compared to open hand/half crimp. Instead of carrying on ignoring it and blaming it on hand morphology or whatever excuse started today at 80% BW open hand, and Sep 11, 2023 · Open Hand vs. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. As discussed in chapter 4, full crimping is mechanically stronger than open-handing or half crimping when on small holds. . But I never thought to take the same approach with three-finger drag or a more openhanded grip. May 30, 2007 · 1. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. It isn't dangerous if trained regularly. If you do a 3 finger drag, it's possible to have completely straight PIP joints on at least 2 of the fingers. Elevate your climbing game with this knowledge. He replied saying that he trains in open half as it feels more natural and he avoids half crimp (depending on edge size like you mention). But after some advice from a coach and wanting to break into higher grades, I got into seriously training the strict half crimp (index On the left is an open hand crimp. For most the half crimp is stronger on thinner edges. Which to focus on/and train: 3 finger open hand grip vs 4 finger "semi" open hand grip I have been dealing with a weak ring finger for a couple of years now. If you’re doing 5 sets of hangs, maybe do 2 open hand and 3 half crimp, changing the weight to whatever you need it to be Kind of a strange thing that doesn't quite make sense, wanted to see if any others have experienced the same thing. This means training a half crimp also trains full and open because they are within that 30 degrees. (Like a full crimp without the thumb. Putting this in to practical terms, it would mean hangboarding with an open grip using only the middle three fingers as opposed to putting my hand into a possibly compromising position for the sake of using my pinky, Does anyone else have any input on this? TL;DR: Long vs. Discrepancy in crimp strength open hand vs. Some people may say open hand is better because it requires less energy, others may say the half crimp is better because you can generate more force. Getting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. Open hand puts less stress on the last joint in the finger, but takes much more force along the tendons and so it takes more training to get strong enough to do it. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. Taking a hold with 4 fingers but “opening” the first finger so the PIP is >90° is what I call “open crimp”. Is it normal to find this quite a bit harder than open hand? Does anyone tend to progress this further to a full crimp? Right now I'm training my half crimp and full crimp by low intensity hangboarding. I did some searching on the sub, and if anything it seems most people are stronger in open or half crimp than full crimp. As a result I would only full crimp if I really had to and otherwise try to pinch a lot of stuff or just open hand it. Just to add to the conversation, open hand vs half crimp is a lot about the body position and how you approach each hold. This position gives my pinkie more access to the hold and puts less force on my index and middle Pulley injuries frequently happen due to rapid & intense stress I rarely dyno directly to an open crimp and foot slippage when in the more stable hand grip should logically happen less frequently So from all these points, it would make much more sense to consider the half crimp or open crimp to be the more risky grips, or am I I have the complete opposite experience as you. I'd suggest just starting to use open hand positions, and avoiding full crimps, if you want to train them. As you see the joints are in a fairly natural position with nothing being overextended. With full crimping, your thumb locks a half-crimp into place and doesn’t allow it to fail. Jul 13, 2021 · So, when training on a hangboard, you’ll usually start by holding a static position, the “dead hang”, with different hand positions like full-crimp, half-crimp and open hand. I've never full crimped, It feels really hard to get into never mind pull off of. I have injured my PIP joint as well as tendons doing your "active" half crimp with the 90 degree bend at the PIP joint. I do try to train open hand, but on projects crimping is a necessity. After a few months of rehab and using different grips, my fingers now feel healthier and stronger than ever. More often than not, you can find a position to make open hand work rather than crimping. Anyone else have this experience? It's possible in theory to half crimp any hold you can full crimp on, your DIP will still be hyperextended but you could maintain a 90 degree angle at the PIP, but this usually feels less secure for most people than using a full crimp. Oct 4, 2017 · What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. Learn when and how to use each technique to enhance your performance and conquer challenging routes. Crimp holds are divided into three different types: full crimp, half crimp, and open hand. We had exactly this discussion with some rad boulderers and trainers last week. Oct 15, 2021 · In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. I thought it goes from open handed or drag (fingers almost straight) to half crimp (fingers at a 90° angle or something), to crimp (what you show) to full crimp (thumb on top of the index finger). Mar 27, 2019 · The answer is that many people (myself included) got injured once too often from full-crimping and re-trained themselves to rely more on the half-crimp. The straight pointer finger one is a open hand crimp, half crimp is when all your fingers are at 90 degrees at the second knuckle. short pinky, open hand vs. All on the lattice rung 22mm edge. I'd say adequate warm up has more of an impact on likelihood of injury than open 3 vs half crimp I also used to have much stronger open hand four finger crimp grip, with what the British like to call the index finger "beaked" in a straight position. The downside to favoring the half crimp (and the full crimp) over an open-hand grip is that the crimp position puts more pressure on your pulleys and tendons. This helped me get into the solid V7-8's without much fuss and I didn't think much about the alternative. The half crimp and full crimp allow for a different variety of force application, and should be trained with that in mind. Unusual Half Crimp I use a weird grip when trying to half crimp. half crimp and 4) are both full crimps. You can train each grip type: open-hand crimp, half-crimp, and full-crimp. Using a thumb wrap should also provide more strength and in general give a more secure feeling. You should continue to train both. Given how variable holds, wall angles, and body postions on climbs can be, choosing the correct way to grip Mar 16, 2005 · The main lesson was that Haydn is weaker than he should be at half crimping and dragging hence: haydn jones said: 4. Hi there, I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. com May 10, 2022 · Sometimes on very small micro-edges, a full-crimp may provide better traction or on larger edges an open/drag grip may provide a more restful alternative, but generally speaking, the half crimp is the way to go. Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than half crimping. In my right dominant hand on tiny holds going into a full crimp feels like my strongest grip. Damit wir im Folgenden aber Klarheit gegenüber den Techniken schaffen, findest du hier die offizielle Definition. My strongest grip is half crimp (bw + 40% at 20mm edge for 7 secs), and I'm currently trying to improve my 3 finger drag. See full list on gripped. Most people train half or open crimp on edges because research shows that isometric strength training translates to other lengths of contraction within 30? degrees of the trained joint angle. I forget which book I read but it claimed that half crimp would help train both the open hand and full crimp. Given the huge discrepancy between my half-crimp and closed crimp, what is a suitable (and safe) way to train the closed crimp? For reference, I also have a super short pinky, so adding the thumb would put extra strain on my wrists, as I have to torque my wrist CW to compensate. I noticed that most of the holds on hard boulders outside are sharp, small, incut crimps which I do very poorly on due to the holds forcing a half/full crimp. The half crimp is also advantageous when we need an inward component of the pull and also when we need to gain an inch extra reach . On some climbs it will likely be necessary to half crimp to keep yourself on the wall, so getting comfortable with half crimping is a good idea. mnrxyc atmal nbzkauz bjfsl opyc xltotwwvb bwhft setq fuggxygtb ashb