Best finger strengthener for climbing reddit. See full list on climbinghouse.
- Best finger strengthener for climbing reddit. Specific exercises will newrly always beat out non specific exercises for the specific thing they train. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Captains of crush gripper is best. A hang board allows for a well structured workout, practical climbing grips, and allow for more weight. Wait, are you new to climbing? It’s generally advisable to wait before incorporating specific finger training exercises but read on and see if this guide fits you. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. It mimics using a fat bar/axle while being cheaper and portable. I think perhaps I have a fairly strong sporting / weightlifting background prior to climbing, so I had a great baseline of strength/flexibility/tension (+ even pinch grip) coming in - and have overcompensated using these at the expense of developing finger strength. Im a little disappointed with my actual grip strength after today's battle ropes workout. I am trying to build stronger hands and forearm strength for wrestling and got a pair for cheap. Jan 26, 2024 · If you’re seeking the best finger strengthening exercises for climbing, then you’re in the right place. What you need is to improve your finger motion to get used to doing hammer ons, pull-offs etc and that only happens thru practice. you should also include finger extensor exercises. You will learn how to prevent injury and enhance climbing performance by utilizing simple training routines that can eventually help you send that project you’ve been working on. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. Jan 3, 2025 · Having a powerful grip is one of the most beneficial attributes any athlete can have. This may or may not help but climbing requires a lot of finger/hand/forearm strength. There is *some* overlap between grip training and finger training (climbing-specific) but, if you're looking to improve your ability to pull down on small holds, spring loaded grip training tools are likely a waste of your time/capacity to recover. That said, you still have room to focus more on techniques instead of strength. As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. I'm at V5-6 and just consider finger now to try to break into V7. They’re durable hand grippers available in a wide range of resistance options, earning a 5 out of 5 for durability. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. The best training tool for this mission (should you accept it!) is the fingerboard. Combining a finger program with mental conditioning and movement training can further optimize per Glossary • 1RM (1-Rep Max): The maximal weight you can lift for a single repetition with correct technique. Thanks! Locked post. Dec 6, 2021 · Best Grip Strengthener for Climbing: Reviews In today’s list, we’ll discuss two different types of grip strengtheners: those that focus on fingers and those that train the whole hand. redditmedia. Oct 20, 2021 · We bought and tested the 5 best grip strengtheners available. From what I've seen of weightlifting things, the general consensus is that low intensity, high reps is better for tendon strength. You could look up different finger routines specific to climbers and see if that would help. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip If you could only do one exercise for grip, fat bar work will give the best bang for the buck. I have the luxury of being able to workout at work and have been working out consistently for the last 3-4 months but really seem to struggle with my finger strength. Rushing into finger strength is the fastest way to get hurt. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Edit: thank you for everyone who seriously answered! Former climbing coach here. Nothing in guitar playing is a question of finger strength. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. Did help for me. These are relatively small, light muscles. 100% playing is the best workout. If you need to strengthen your fingers, grab a nice acoustic guitar strung with 13s, or if electric is what you prefer, use 11s. All of your effort goes into maintaining a strict crimp, and that allows you to best overload the finger muscles that hold a crimp. If you were rock climbing say, that requires finger strength. Hangboarding will be better for training crimp strength than climbing. Alternatively, you could begin a dedicated strength phase in which the climbing becomes the training intervention—i. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. I would imagining only hanging on to something would create finger strength imbalances. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. I like the idea of hypertrophy training using whatever you want, but the published data indicates that gripper training is at best tangentially beneficial to climbing. Hand grippers do not build tendon strength or neurological at all. It takes 2 or 3 months of climbing before your ligaments start to strengthen at all. As someone who has a gym background you might want to make sure you're not solving your problems with just strength. It won't help with climbing directly . e. New comments cannot be posted. And the dexterity is only earned by practising - your limitation won't be your strength but your lack of skill. If you’re a beginner rock climber, you should invest in a high-quality grip strengthener to improve your finger strength. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. May 9, 2025 · Our pick for the best overall grip strengthener goes to the Ironmind Captains of Crush, some of the strongest grip tools we’ve tested. Any decent training book (Horst, Neumann, Hague) will have recommendations for finger strength exercises that actually work, but almost all of them require a hangboard or a climbing wall. Unlike an axle bar, it can even be used with dumbbells. Your hands won't have much choice but to /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Read our in-depth reviews to find the top options for power lifters, climbers, and musicians. Has anyone felt like the grip trainers are fun but don't carry over to real world grip strength? trueI have used the gripmaster on and off since 15 (that was 23 years ago). I can cay absolutely that, if it's used right, it will strengthen your hand and fingers, but will do little to nothing to improve your guitar playing. Not 100% on that though. It’s almost impossible to get the max out of your fingers after 2 hours of climbing, even if it’s relatively easy climbs. Train for finger strength and the tendons take care of themselves. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm developing an anecdotally-supported notion that tendon strength this is the literal building block of all climbing performance, perhaps even more fundamental than the "strength" training that targets muscle recruitment. But if you’re stuck in a place for prolonged periods where you don’t have your guitar - this can help develop finger strength for barre chords. Check it out! So the other posters have covered the obvious "these aren't super useful" so I'll directly answer the question of how best to use them. These adapters can turn any exercise into a grip exercise. In climbing, however, you need excess strength primarily in your forearms, as hand strength is often the weakest link. Nov 21, 2022 · Assuming these advanced climbers already possess a high level of climbing skill and good base fitness, improving finger strength-to-weight ratio is possible only by way of training to increase the amount of force the finger flexors can apply to a rock hold. Watch videos of pros, watch other climbers, climb boulders with a group. Take it easy though, tendons are easily damaged. It utilizes all: fingers, thumb, and even some wrist strength. I already have some experience climbing on a board, mostly a friend’s spray wall set at 35° in the city where I lived in 2022, but the Kilter Board holds seem generally larger and obviously the angle can be adjusted, so I’m You mentioned a list of things to use it for but none of those require much finger strength. I typically use a hang gripper for thumb strength (pinches) and for warm up. Dec 18, 2020 · Finger grip strengtheners target specific hand and forearm muscles, which are both crucial for successful rock climbing. Jan 1, 2022 · Do grip strengtheners work for rock climbing, or are they just another gimmick to get you to part ways with your hard earned money?. Neil Gresham recommended the PowerFingers Finger Strengtheners to me in a masterclass (he highly recommended the exercise, especially during warming up, but also recommended the product). Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. you stop climbing set boulders and, instead of starting to fingerboard We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Hence, worthless, completely and utterly--at least if you're trying to improve your climbing. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Building finger strength takes time and can be a gradual process. Anecdotally, I have a buddy who can three finger drag 6 mil all daybut he sucks at slopers because his shoulders are weak. 15 votes, 24 comments. For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out the Best Climbing Hangboards. Feb 2, 2024 · From Gripmasters to Powerfingers, our list covers some of the best grip strengtheners for climbing. Rest on a hangboard: this is COMPLETELY based on the goals of the workout. Reply reply [deleted] • 12 votes, 25 comments. Reddit's rock climbing training community. I don't think anyone follows a program with the specific purpose of strengthening the tendons in your hand, and I don't think it makes sense to do so. Nov 2, 2023 · The BBTO finger strengthener is the best hand grip strengthener for training individual fingers. This all keeps the muscles balanced which reduces chance for injury. I've been seeing ads for a grip strengthener where you don't squeeze but you flex out. On to our favorites! By the way, when you finish reading this, be sure to also check out our other climbing gear reviews here. Is that better? Do you need both? Or are both crap? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Hangboarding does not account for any of this Especially if you are trying to test your max finger strength after a full climbing session. Mar 2, 2025 · But we here at The Adventure Junkies can help you find the best grip strengthener to help you hold on through the crux of your favorite climb. If you identify a specific weakness, programing in 15 minutes to address that weakness There have been a half dozen climbing specific studies that indicate grip trainer strength does not correlate to hangboard strength or to on-the-wall performance. I've been going to the gym fairly often, but it seems (even though my forearms are stronger than most my friends) that grip strength is holding me back in all my back lifts. I use both, but as for finger strength, all my gains have been from hang board sessions. What does everyone's finger warmup routine look like? Are Hand grippers effective? Hey guys so I got a pair of the heavy gripz 250 lb hand grippers and was wondering if these are worth spending time with to increase my grip strength or more of a scam. If you get those little kits with the 5 different kind of instruments they do a good job of lightly working out all those lower arm/hand parts Reply reply Basicallydirt • My gym (Movement SF) has limited bouldering and an adjustable Kilter Board, and I’m wondering how best to use the latter tool to improve my finger strength. The best training you can do is more climbing, and more watching. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Mar 10, 2023 · For the psyched climber climbing in that V5 to V8 range, you can only safely add finger stress if you correspondly decrease your total climbing volume. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. We’ve reviewed some of the best grip strengtheners on the market today. com Mar 26, 2025 · Finger strength gains can come from any climbing that has moves or holds that are taxing on the fingers—like bouldering at your limit—but the extraneous movement won’t translate directly to finger strength. Not for finger strength but I find these kind of squeeze exercise things quite good for rehabbing on off days. Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses. I've been struggling to properly warm up my fingers at the gym. It is usually recommended to start finger training after a year of climbing. Calisthenics is your friend. A coach prescribing proper load could easily and effectively build finger strength in a 3 month new climber (even if that’s not wheeler time is best spent). But the best way to gain it is to climb more. com If you are genuinely interested in training your grip for BJJ, your best resources are one of the routines on r/griptraining, or Dan Strauss has a grip training for BJJ instructional available, that is specifically tailored for BJJ athletes. There are times I’m working on max strength where I’m taking lots of rest. I am planning to start finger training, and I'm wondering how I can supplement my climbing with finger training without… Finger strength I’ve been indoor climbing about once a week for 5 months now and seem to be struggling a lot with finger strength. Same with deadlifting or anything Ofcourse you can strengthen your fingers. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. If you pull a tendon, you're looking at months of recovery If you even fully recover. Does the GRIPMASTER pro hands tool work well in developing finger strength or is it more of a gimmick and could possibly injure my fingers. Any advice from climbers with a similar story? Feb 24, 2023 · Finger strength, though critical to climbing performance, is just one component to climbing hard. Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. It’s a kit of 4 different finger exercisers that are coded with various colors according to their resistance levels. What gripper should I get? I'm new to this community, but I like to think I have a general understanding of what I'm doing in terms of getting stronger forearms. Finger strength training is not recommended without climbing 2x or more a week for a year due to the historical use of hangboards at body weight load. Grip and forearm strengtheners help increase mobility and dexterity of your fingers along with strengthening the supporting muscles needed for climbing. I would recommend doing a variety of finger strengthening exercises. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. See full list on climbinghouse. Hello. Hangboarding targets this important element of climbing. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. Best grip strengtheners? I do understand the normal exercises for this but my question is for the extra devices that I can do from my desk while working at home. Apr 27, 2025 · In this article we are going to talk about some the best ways to build climbing strength and how to train grip strength inside and outside of your local climbing gym. I use them to just keep my crushing grip strength equivilant to my climbing strength. lrd bbk hkum ymmp xjshq nvuqp cbbli bzfyz qxmcrsk fmlvi