Reddit finger strength. I know I have super weak fingers .

Reddit finger strength. Always both of them, never just one hand. After injuring it a couple of times over the years and subconsciously not using it as much as the other fingers, it has become much weaker than the other fingers on my left hand. " I know tendons and ligaments can be developed through exposure, training and time, but if our fingers are I do mostly body weight grip training but also some gripper training and extra forearm work and I’ve noticed my ring and pinky fingers are pretty weak, much weaker than my other fingers, which is understandable because the pinky is so small, but how can I improve my strength in these fingers? I’ve been using the gripmaster seen in the picture but my pinky is still not strong enough to do So one of my main weaknesses has always been grip strength. Hangboards don't need 10 different pocket combinations to work. Anecdotally, I have a buddy who can three finger drag 6 mil all daybut he sucks at Spiderwalk over the neck, then you can use one of those finger strengthening thingys if you want. Find a method that emphasizes efficiency and precision over raw force. If you can hang 45 lbs on 6mm and ONLY doing V10 then your issue is not finger strength - it's other weaknesses preventing you from sending harder. I'm just wondering has anyone else had experience I usually play 3-4 times a week and find that I jam my fingers frequently and have difficulty volleying the ball. Finger muscles are a component of grip strength, don’t forget the rest of your hand. The muscles which bend the finger joints are located in the palm and up in the mid forearm, and are connected to the finger bones by tendons, which pull on and move the fingers like the strings of a marionette. And yeah, there are definitely easier ways to open them than brute force. Working towards 'finger strength' is a good way to develop tendonitis. Ive gradually lost strength over the last 5 yrs. It’s called 60 drills you can do or something like that. You can't grip with greater force than the structures themselves can withstand. This statement seems reasonable since the heavy finger rolls cause repeated, high-intensity eccentric and concentric contractions of the forearm We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. All my fingers tweaks are gone after 6 workouts. I’ve been climbing for about 3 years. I can close a CoC 1. May 7, 2024 · People were writing about weighted finger curls for finger strength and endurance 5 years ago on Reddit. At that point I ween off, and introduce min hangs/max hangs to get my peak flexor force slightly higher. 4 lbs of force for the red bands, once you outgrow the red bands you can double up or use a red and another band color to increase the resistance. Thanks! Locked post. For the past year or so I became really focused on training well, and I started hangboarding about 5 months ago—largely using the Crimpd app to structure my hangboarding. There are two types of finger strength: flat finger strength and curved finger strength. The weight of your hand & arm are more than sufficient to provide any strength you’ll need to play any volume you want. Ironmind is 0. My fingers simply do not have the strength to play many more advanced pieces. Good article. You are limited by poor technique which puts a lot more load on your fingers than is necessary. ex shoulder stability or just technique under the fingerboard. I always felt my finger strength was a bit weak compared to the rest of my body, so 3 months ago I committed to structured hangboarding. Nothing else has ever actually improved my hand strength. Stronger fingers mean you can use smaller holds—and holds that felt unhangable before will feel more manageable. Finger pushups train for flat finger strength. 2 yrs ago it was 40lbs in both hands. Find books & articles dedicated to finger independence, and you’ll be on the right path. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. I grew up a classical/jazz pianist and still play consistently so I've always had highly dexterous fingers, it makes me wonder if this has translated into finger strength in my fitness journey Mar 26, 2025 · The Solution: Train finger strength by hangboarding. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. Hello lovely people, Just wondering if anyone can give me advice on finger strength ?, I want to be able to do a pull ups on my door frame but the fingers are just far too weak : (, I've started implementing finger pushups and finger floor l sits into my routine but its been 3 weeks and I haven't noticed any considerable gains . I recently got turned onto using the tindeq and further more into trying out maximal concentric finger curls with a block… I think the board is better at training contact strength (rfd) vs peak finger flexor force. Good technique consists of relaxing all the things that might slow down the impulse from the forearms to the fingers, especially the wrist: tension at any point makes the digits slower and less precise. But ARC is way to far down that line, 30 Are Hand grippers effective? Hey guys so I got a pair of the heavy gripz 250 lb hand grippers and was wondering if these are worth spending time with to increase my grip strength or more of a scam. This isolation exercise is great and really gets you to be aware of your own hand muscles. Your technique over time will improve, and your moves will get a lot more efficient and less stressful. I find that if I use the MB regularly for more than 2-3 months at a time, the "finger gains" I feel from it start to diminish. Simply add a load to your harness and hang two-handed or one-handed on the edge of your choice for as long as you can. I wonder if anyone is training for finger strength here or has any experience especially in pushing rather than pulling, because there isn't much or any information on that type of "grip" work, even on r/griptraining subreddit. I know this definitely isn't normal and I am working on building up the strength on my bad side. Any decent training book (Horst, Neumann, Hague) will have recommendations for finger strength exercises that actually work, but almost all of them require a hangboard or a climbing wall. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • As for timing, I think waiting till after all your climbing is a poor idea if gaining finger strength is a goal. I have 3lbs grip strength in the right at a whole 9 lbs in the left. Any suggestions regarding how to get my fingers "up to speed"? Do people here like the Hanon book? Do you play books of scales? Or something else I'm unaware of? I'm a guy of limited time for whom lessons are not an option . Why this protocol? Because it’s very time-effective and backed by science to maximize finger strength. To balance climbing's flexion load, we focused on extension moves in the rice: finger flicks, wrist rolls, door knockers, dive and spread, grab and roll, etc. Especially if you are trying to test your max finger strength after a full climbing session. I have small hands and thin forearms. The goal is to create a training program that matches the strength/skill balance of the athlete. It's a method that goes back to the 90's. I had surgery on my left hand about a year ago and there is still a huge disparity in my grip strengths between my two hands even after physio. What exercises worked best for you guys in developing a killer grip along with overall hand strength? I want to develop that touch of God!! Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. I don't think anyone follows a program with the specific purpose of strengthening the tendons in your hand, and I don't think it makes sense to do so. Nobody needs to do “finger strength” exercises. So much of sloper strength is core/shoulder strength, as well as open hand strength. These first years are good to practice technique, improve general body strength and your mind while leading, but I'd avoid doing a lot of fingerboard training or too many crimpy routes. Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. It To progress max hangs/min edge hangs/max finger flexor output would require the limiting factor to be tendon strength. In short the conclusion was, train isometrically (fingerboard) rather than with grip trainers if you want to climb better. Hangboarding is also the safest way to build hand strength because you can train progressively and measurably, starting with lighter weights and gradually building a base of strength over weeks/months. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. I grew up playing a lot of tennis so my right hand/forearm are much bigger and stronger than my left side. Is a coach I always had a bias towards technique, self confirmed as I climbed e4 and first 7a when I was weak. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip It takes between 1 and 2 years to build enough finger strength to not injure them while climbing a lot and hard. And for the vast majority of athletes, that balance is strongly skewed towards skill. The hobbyists who play instruments or who have jobs /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. Wrist curls put stresses on your wrists to make them adapt and be strong enough to handle more advanced exercises like bending, tearing, hammer levering, and even grippers, that can be very dangerous to a wrist joint that has not been prepared Well it's going to naturally get stronger the more you type so you don't need to worry to much about that That being said. I still can't hold my weight on the doorframe although I So,I'm an intermediate-ish player who has plateaued pretty hard in the past couple of years. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Half-Crimp , 3 finger drag , full-crimp and pinch. The resiliency of tendon structures in the fingers contribute a lot to grip strength. I’m fine when it comes to endurance (for instance when holding sleeves in open guard), but I think I would benefit from increasing my max strength in order to become stronger in collar chokes and grips in the lapel. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Climbing multiple times a week does wonders for finger strength if you focus on working problems that require a lot of finger strength. I feel like its made my left hand technique much better. The hardest finger to do for me is the ring finger but with practice it gets easier to do. First I’m thinking that, as any climber climb with his own body weight as a base, then finger strength development should be in relation to that, and therefore the heavier you are the more strength you will gain? ( I’m talking more of finger strength based on the muscle activation, like any kind of crimps, unlike drags that would rely more on passive structure). The drop in max strength might be because that way of testing finger strength is unusual for you now - f. This makes me always wonder about this training with respect to frequency and endurance versus load, and how each affects the muscles, bones and neurological enhancement of forearm/grip. Not sure if this is hypermobility related or not but idk where else to ask as that’s my only physical diagnosis, so Anyone have random episodes of weakness in the hands/total loss of the ability to grip for a while? I was under the impression that this was just a normal human experience up until last night. If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. If anything start lifting - all the muscles that control your fingers/grip strength are pretty much in the forearm. I've been bouldering for 3 months and have come to the very newbie-level conclusion that my hand and finger strength are hugely limiting factors for me, as I have noticed a huge difference in the boulder problems at my gym when going from V3/4 to V4/5. I've been focusing on strengthening my middle, ring, and pinky fingers. Me personally I kind of kept on doing block starts until my fingers got strong enough to withstand the load. Any advice on how I can build up hand strength? It doesn't matter that people start with different levels of finger strength (or movement skill, or whatever). Your hand would explode. Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses. The progress has been somewhat miraculous and I went on weighted hangs from 16 kg added to 45 kg in about 12 weeks. * Not to say you can just do 1 heavy single a week or something, volume is still important We both found it to be a great way to keep our hand strength and mobility balanced. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. Now let's see if I can get adaptation gains that take months 2x per week (2-3 days of rest between). Or try lower tension strings. Climbing largely works hand/wrist flexion, and very little extension. From what I've seen of weightlifting things, the general consensus is that low intensity, high reps is better for tendon strength. Use your hips, shoulder and feet to actively pull into positions that allow you to weight on each hold in the best directions. :) Reply reply More replies headcoat2013 • It's one of the best exercises to do if you want to improve your wrist and finger strength. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. As to whether the gripper exercisers increase your grip strength, I think it depends on specificity, if you need a specific type of grip strength you would be better off with an exercise that matches the specific demands of your sport or job. The reduction in volume does mean you recover faster, which will render you better strength gains, but really the bottom line is that you simply don't need a huge* amount of volume of strength development, intensity (for specifically strength) is paramount. This is a grip training subreddit. The only stuff I've found that had any carryover to functional grip strength (for me, that means being able to not drop an 800+ pound deadlift) are plate pinches for time, double overhand fat bar deadlifts, and captains of crush grippers. If you can’t do pull-ups well, try chin up or simply do active holds and scapular pull-ups with your normal pull-up grip (plus, you train the scapular muscles, bonus Reddit's rock climbing training community. Now I'm unsure what to do should I just keep going or is that risking injury. Jars aren't really about finger strength, they're about wrist, chest, and good technique. You'll build up strength from playing well enough though, just be consistent and play every day, but keep a rest day if you feel numbness or pain while playing. . Get your cello set up properly. g. aka . I'd highly suggest figuring out what those weaknesses are whether it's technique or other things. If you Pretty much everyone who climbs V4-V5 does finger strength training but I haven’t done it. Finger strength I’ve been indoor climbing about once a week for 5 months now and seem to be struggling a lot with finger strength. Is finger strength the same as grip strength? I'm asking this question as the grip in my left hand is greatly limited by the pinkie finger. Until then, you're probably going to have to limber up a bit and just keep getting a feel for things. It seems like quite a jump to conclude that stronger tendons = increased output from the musculotendonous unit. It's easier to safely improve technique than finger strength at this point in your climbing and will pay off more down the road. But you shouldn’t be gripping anyway! Longer endpin might help you with “draping” your hands over the cello. Aside from that, a very cheap option is to buy a 3/4 in strip of wood, and nail/screw it onto another piece of wood (Porch rafter, over a door way, under the stairs, etc). You’ll end up injured with carpal tunnel. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Eli5: Why is grip strength significantly worse when you first wake up? And why do hands feel so stiff in the morning? Primarily trained in four directions (forward, reverse, pronation, and supination), sledge levering is the ultimate exercise for wrist strength and size. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out there. The first is kind of pushing strength of the fingers and what arm wrestlers train for a lot, the latter is your "normal" grip strength. In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. Extensor training after grip strength training helps strengthen tendons that are still associated with grip strength. For bodyweight exercises, try using your full hand not just fingers (if you’re practicing grip, you should grip, even in a dead hang). Its so bad now I am in both physical therapy for fibromyalgia related body weakness and Occupational Therapy just for my hands. See full list on emedihealth. My hands don’t go numb at all when this happens, and I can still move them a little, I just lose all my grip strength to the point where I can barely hold something light with both hands. Is there any reason I should focus on improving open hand strength? I suppose open hand gives you like another inch of reach and half crimping everything can lead to injury (coincidentally I have mild synovitis in "The fingers are special, because there are no muscles inside the fingers. com Jun 25, 2020 · The Bouldering Finger Strength Calculator will allow you to see how strong your fingers truly are. There are a bunch of exercises on their website, as well, to target specific kinds of hand strength. If you really want to see progress on the fingerboard, maybe some weeks of light training with it will make you able to hang with more weight. Are there much more focused hand and wrist exercises that are more efficient? You aren't limited by finer strength. There’s a tendon in your hand that connects your ring finger & your pinky that makes things pretty difficult, but you can train your muscles Reddit's rock climbing training community. New comments cannot be posted. (Farmers walks is basically carrying 2 dumbells, 1 in each hand, then walking around with good posture, a straight back) Train for finger strength and the tendons take care of themselves. Plus it makes your wrists stronger and contributes to stronger thumbs which helps with grip strength. Thanks for sharing. I already have some experience climbing on a board, mostly a friend’s spray wall set at 35° in the city where I lived in 2022, but the Kilter Board holds seem generally larger and obviously the angle can be adjusted, so I’m Are finger rolls actually training finger tendon strength or just grip strength? I’m not an expert and I’m not trying to be a dick but that exercise looks more like it trains forearm strength than it would finger strength for climbing specific movement (holding onto smaller edges for longer). As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. If you've got absolutely no finger strength related gear you can always do pull ups while holding onto the bar with just your fingertips, ideally in a half crimp. It's a guess, but it sounds alot like lack of general body strength (arms, shoulders, etc) because that's the most common requirement I can think of, when finger strength is already sufficient (edit, when taking your level in count and generally how you describe things). What got me psyched was having a way to measure. I cant open boxes, twist lids, open door knobs, pick up/grasp items and the pain is so bad my writing looks The Soviet climbers claimed that heavy finger rolls produce measurable gains in forearm circumference (a sign of muscle hypertrophy), whereas strength gains from fingerboard or campus training are primarily the result of neurological adaptations. So heres /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Do you recommend starting or waiting a year to avoid injuries because that’s my worst fear right now. I am trying to build stronger hands and forearm strength for wrestling and got a pair for cheap. Don't do farmer walks if you still experience hand pain. Yes. If you treated finger strength like lifting weights how would you organize training to reach a 140% bw hang, or change your training to reach 170% when basic progress slow? Or is treating half crimp strength as a lifting exercise a wrong approach? Muscles in the forearms contract the fingers, so "finger strength" is "forearm strength". 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? This would result in increased muscle mass, which sounds great, but for a climber isometric strength gained from increased connective tissue throughout the forearm is preferable, which is gained from static holds. Starting with a crane scale and moving on to a tindeq later. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. Small (hand) holds in that grade range are probably more limited by body position, footwork, posture and core tension (aka, technique) than finger strength. I strongly recommend the book Bass Fitness, it has loads of exercises for building up strenght and developing technique. Maybe try some simple hand stretches so you don't get sore, and just proceed normally with solving. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. 40 votes, 48 comments. Sloper strength is one of the weirdest things to train. It's not to say just climbing won't improve your finger strength, steep crimpy board style climbing in particular will certainly give you strong fingers, however it's hard to maintain the correct progressive stimulus for continued finger strength gains. Any tips for getting stronger fingers? My pinkie is my weakest finger, I just recently bought a guitar finger exercise grip and I've been noticing a lot of improvement in my index and ring finger but my pinkie finger is still weak as hell. Think finger independence, not strength. This is enough to gain recruitment because my least recruited grip (3 finger drag) went up really fast. Most grip trainers are semi useless. A single sledgehammer can give you a multitude of resistance levels just by adjusting where you grab on the handle (add tick marks for reference). Good luck! Reply r/Cubers • r/Cubers • r/Cubers • r/Cubers • r/Cubers • r/Cubers The only answer is time and consistency, introduce finger boards when there’s no climbs available that are challenging your fingers strength, or you’re adding weight to max hangs (after minimum a year of solid climbing) You theoretically can finger board now and probably avoid injury, but the reward for risk is not worth it. I have the luxury of being able to workout at work and have been working out consistently for the last 3-4 months but really seem to struggle with my finger strength. I know I have super weak fingers My gym (Movement SF) has limited bouldering and an adjustable Kilter Board, and I’m wondering how best to use the latter tool to improve my finger strength. Grip strength is specific to the hand position. So yeah- 3 finger drag will help, but if you don't have the core/shoulders to press down on the slopers while moving your body around them in space it won't matter. What would you consider the most important of them to train (if you had to only pick one due to time constraints) in order to move forward? Building finger strength for the purpose of finger independence is never a bad idea. Anyone have any tips regarding this? So my finger strength was always a bloofy excuse and injuries were just part of life. Never affects anything but my hands. It happened and didn’t go away for like 10-15 minutes and I got concerned so I If you can hang 45 lbs on 6mm and ONLY doing V10 then your issue is not finger strength - it's other weaknesses preventing you from sending harder. Dec 17, 2024 · I think the biggest thing is that even with great balance, your body weight is to going fluctuate over your fingers as you balance, so each individual finger is going to need a lot more strength than something much steadier like a fingertip L sit. 5 about 20 times in a row on my right hand, and I can't close it at all in my left. Overall hand strength- crushing containing or otherwise - will help you in arm wrestling. I'm at the The only time I use an open hand grip like 3 finger drag is if I'm forced to (e. Device helps improve hand strength and dexterity (backed by 2 comments) Device provides therapeutic benefits for hand injuries or conditions (backed by 3 comments) Product difficult for small hands to operate (backed by 1 comment) If you'd like to summon me to ask about a product, just make a post with its link and tag me, like in this example. Sprint project on YouTube posted a video about some finger strengthening exercises tho. Beyond that I half-crimp everything. It’s almost impossible to get the max out of your fingers after 2 hours of climbing, even if it’s relatively easy climbs. If you have a ball (preferably something that can at least fit in your hand) Gripping the ball with your fingertips for about 10 seconds (Do this a few times a day) is a great way to increase your finger strength. The point is to train joints and tissues around our forearms like the wrists gradually to increase their strength. pockets) or if I don't need to grip the holds with much force. Happens every couple months-ish (haven’t really been paying attention). But at some point you have to practice what you preach and work your weakness. The pro extra-heavy tension one will go to 55lbs (11lb per finger), while the gripmaster extra-light goes to about 15lbs (3lb per finger). Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. The picture is a screenshot of the results of Crimpd’s finger strength test, which is basically building up to a 1 rep max at 20 mm for 7 seconds. Hey r/guitar, I'm having difficulties with barre chords as I'm assuming most beginners do and I'm wondering what exactly is a good practice exercise to develop strength? Thanks in advance for any help you guys can offer. qpywm emba sankf fgcp bohze jfd qich vqjvb tgj rkxc