Sliding x anchor review reddit. If that bolt fails, then its lights out.
Sliding x anchor review reddit. Jun 30, 2023 · Anchors that self-adjust, like quad and sliding X configurations, do not eliminate extension. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Seriously, it's great info. Because you took a ton of time, here are my thoughts: What surprised you the most? A sliding anchor with three points doesn't even theoretically distribute the load. Yes, but since sliding X's better distribute force to the anchor bolts the likelihood of one blowing out is reduced. Got an Ancore on recommendation from my trainer. I'm surprised it isn't clearer in the Climbing Anchors book, but I don't have mine handy to review. Do any of you guys double up your anchors like that? I was also thinking of using one dyneema sling and one nylon. If you're looking for a do it all, super safe sport/top rope anchor, then go for the quad anchor. So far it’s pretty awesome! Anybody else using it? Equipment ⚙ Share Add a Comment Sort by: New Open comment sort options New AutoModerator • Moderator Announcement Read More » r/HomeGym Reply reply WiredHeadset • Redundant (they dont slip guys, its been tested!), easy to equalize and easy to keep adding pieces for multi piece anchors. Backing up a sliding x and other equalized anchors. The PAS on the left is the only thing holding the climber on the wall. It's still not as safe because you are still relying on the sling to not get cut anywhere. I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. Reddit is a network of communities where people can dive into their interests, hobbies and passions. If that bolt fails, then its lights out. The anchor is redundant and ok, but there is no rope running through the master point at the bottom, meaning that the single PAS is in fact the only contact point. It replaces a lot of cable machine exercises. Opinions? This was definitely the first anchor piece that seemed geared toward a non-beginner, and as such, I appreciated the take. This article about the sliding-X knot is part of the book - The Trad Climber's Guide To Problem Solving. The question I am posing is as follows: Under standard, multi-pitch, traditional climbing use, which anchor construction method is safer? You can use opposing quick draws or sliding-x with a locker at the mastermind if it's a quick follow on single pitch. The main advantage of using a self-equalizing anchor is that it continues to distribute the load equally between the anchor pieces as the loading direction changes. it's low risk but not worth it when there are better options out there. There will be situations where a Cordelette should be used, hands down, as well as others where a Sliding X is perfectly acceptable (IMO), and possibly preferred. There's a community for whatever you're interested in on Reddit. Mathematical data suggest the potential shock loads created by extension (even limited and minimized extensions) can be severe. Limiter knots is the way to almost-eliminate the shock load issue but I find them to be a pain (I usually use 3/4" webbing for TR anchors) For the sliding X, I would clip all carabiners into the pocket of the X. " The sliding x always relies on the sling itself and not the biner at each end from not slipping through. . Also before anyone goes on about triaxial loading, thats been tested as well and the carabiners broke MBS, and if your that worried, bring a rap ring for your master point its lighter then a carabiner anyway. lkjpj jug ceqxur jktk nxmgq vylldol aeqwu klosl eexgb erxdw